TMB Stage 3: Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme to Refuge Cabane Du Combal

On Saturday, July 2, 2016, we awoke in the dark surrounded by 20 sleeping strangers in a refuge on top of the snowy mountain miles from civilization. 5am and we were getting our gear ready to leave the Refuge de la Croix du Bonhomme in the French Alps.  

After and unimpressive breakfast of bread, honey, oats with hot water, we started on our trail to Col des Fours.  

As we hiked up the hill in the snow, we noticed some dark gray clouds looming on our left among the mountains below us. Then a light trickle rain started spotting are clothes. I glanced to the left to see a huge wall of grey cloud rapidly enveloping our snowy slope and heading straight for us! I just barely had time to shadow warning to my parents when the dark cloud overcame us, covering our pass with shadow and it's victims with downpour. We stumbled to get our rain gear as we were soaked from the storm. We debated whether to turn back or move through the rain, but a French hiking group assured us it would end soon.  

Sure enough, after 10 minutes it died down. We continued to the Col (French for mountain pass) to find a huge, steep slope of snow. The French hikers debated where the correct path was, while we looked on in hopes they would figure it out. 

Eventually, a few went down the slope slowly and carefully to avoid slipping.  I decided to follow, having some experience with hiking down snowy slopes in 2013. Here's the secret with snowy hills: it's very difficult to hurt yourself. With this knowledge and experience, I bounded down the hill like a snow bunny.  I'm sure it was an entertaining sight.  Running down the gradual slope, then starting to ski with my hiking poles as it got steeper, I tried to maintain my balance as I accelerated. But eventually, I slipped, fell back, and slid it down on my butt at in increasing speed!  I almost knocked down a Frenchman. I must've slide down 200 feet before coming to a stop. It was a blast! My numb and wet backside was the only price I had to pay.

We continued our descent from snow to a rocky terrain mixed with mud and grassy steep terraces.  It was slow going and many fell in the mud and snow (including the Tullmanns!).  There was another downpour, a hard and cold rain that drifted from large droplets to hail. With the excessive snow and rain on the mountain, the creeks had turned into churning mini-rivers, submerging stepping stones.  

The French and the Tullmann's were crossing one such small river and my mom slipped in! I helped her out and she was fine, just soaked.  We continue down into the valley where we passed a dairy famous for its Buford French cheese.

We followed the TMB signs along a dirt path that ascended from the valley towards a mountain Col.

We stopped at refuge Les Mottets for a quick snack and coffee. We also changed our soaking socks.  Then we started climbing a ton of switchback trails and rapidly ascended the steep mountain with our French companions.  We came to an overflowing stream and were forced to wade across and soak our boots and socks once again!  I helped my parents across the best I could.

We continued to climb and met a group of three from New Jersey-- Helen, her son Christopher, and a hiking friend.  We made it to the top of the Col where a crazy strong torrent of wind nearly knocked us over-- I could barely take the selfie with our new South Koren acquaintance, Hye Jin.

We descended into a valley of snow and rock, where we had to guesstimate where our French friends had gone.  While we carefully climbed down, we were in awe of the huge valley with massive rock mountains on either side that compare with Yosemite Valley.  

As we got closer to the refuge Elisabetta, were we had made reservations the night before, the rain started up again, but this time the deluge was the most intense if the entire day.  We braved through for 10-15 minutes and then up on the side of the mountain, we spotted the refuge!!!  We were saved!  (And soaked).  

We ascended the hill to the hut and arrived to an overflowing hotel with barely enough room to take off our boots!  I made my way to the owners desk to check for The Tullmann's.  He said we had no reservations.  This refuge should have been booked 2-3 months in advanced.  He had 91 beds for 91 guests and they were booked!  We were so disappointed and almost gave up hope when he mentioned another Cabane 45 minutes down the mountain.  The thought of trudging through the rain AGAIN for another hour did not appeal to us, but then, the sun came out and the weather cleared-- temporarily.

We took our only option and walked the 45 minutes down the valley, hoping to outrun the rain.  I power walked ahead to check if there was any room at the suggested alternative lodging, Cabane de Combal.  Once I got there, not only did they have a vacancy, but much more...

My parents arrived and we were introduced to luxury lodging.  Our own room, 3 beds, our OWN bathroom with our own shower!  We were in pampered heaven.  Compared to the communial living refuges, having our own space made the walk so worth it!

And dinner was pretty fantastic too.  A hearty vegetable soup, with bread, pork, mashed potatoes, and a chocolate and pear cake.